Lunch today. I love it when somebody rhapsodizes about things simple. Like a new potato. Or the sound of a dishwasher. It's mindful. It's comforting. It's chastising.
This recipe is from Rowley Leigh's food column in the FT. I substituted asparagus for about-to-wilt rocket leaves and chopped Romain lettuce that I had in my fridge, which is fine, except you'll probably need more dressing to cover the expansion of foliage. I used fresh trout.
"A simple enough assembly: the most important point is not to let any of the ingredients see the inside of a fridge once they are cooked. Fillets of smoked trout could well be substituted for fresh. Enough for a light lunch for four or a starter for six.
Ingredients
750g Cornish early, Jersey new or other new potatoes, as fresh as is conceivably possible
2 trout weighing 300g-350g each
1 lemon
1 bunch green asparagus (454g)
2 egg yolks
2 tsp white wine vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tbs sunflower oil
1 tbs cream or crème fraîche
10 tarragon leaves
Method
● Place the new potatoes in a bowl of cold water and agitate fiercely with a coarse scrubbing pad to remove the skins. If that fails to remove them, scrape them off them with a small knife or abrasive cloth. Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold water and a teaspoon of salt and bring to a simmer. Cook until tender – 20 to 25 minutes – and then drain and allow to cool. If using potatoes with tough skins, it is best to cook them with the skins on and then remove them while they cool.
● If using fresh trout, sprinkle some sea salt on a sheet of foil and season the cavities of the fish with sea salt, milled pepper and a few slices of lemon. Wrap each trout in the foil and bake in a hot oven, 200ºC, for 15 minutes. Remove and leave to cool in the foil packages.
● Peel and trim the stalks of the asparagus and place the spears in a very large pot of boiling, salted water for two minutes. Remove and allow to cool, having spread them out on a tray in a cool place.
● Make a dressing by whisking together the egg yolks, mustard, vinegar and seasonings before adding the oil, cream and chopped tarragon. Add a little lemon juice to sharpen if required. Remove the foil and skin from the fish and lift the fillets off the bone. Break the flesh up into large flakes and place in a large bowl. Slice the potatoes thickly and add them to the bowl. Cut the asparagus into short finger lengths and add them in turn. Pour the dressing over, very gently mix together and spoon on to plates."
~Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2009~
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Drove along the 290 Highway,
on our way to Austin for Memorial Day -
A romantic weekend mini-break.
On the way there is Whataburger,
McDonalds, Sonic, Love's,
The occasional Subway.
There's also Kickapoo Road -
it shares a name I grew up with, back home.
Round Top, Benham, Chappell Hill.
These names I knew only by name,
Through the window of a car,
Across the highway's access road.
On the way there is Whataburger,
McDonalds, Sonic, Love's,
The occasional Subway.
I wonder whether there is an end to this interminable B-roll,
Is this all there is to my new "home"?
Then we stop and I get out of the car,
It's a Love's, with Taco Bell and Church's beside.
I stare at the soaring criss-crossing highways,
The sense that this is a big big country, great.
In confronting the fear I erase it.
I know there is a future waiting out there for me.
Still scared though.
on our way to Austin for Memorial Day -
A romantic weekend mini-break.
On the way there is Whataburger,
McDonalds, Sonic, Love's,
The occasional Subway.
There's also Kickapoo Road -
it shares a name I grew up with, back home.
Round Top, Benham, Chappell Hill.
These names I knew only by name,
Through the window of a car,
Across the highway's access road.
On the way there is Whataburger,
McDonalds, Sonic, Love's,
The occasional Subway.
I wonder whether there is an end to this interminable B-roll,
Is this all there is to my new "home"?
Then we stop and I get out of the car,
It's a Love's, with Taco Bell and Church's beside.
I stare at the soaring criss-crossing highways,
The sense that this is a big big country, great.
In confronting the fear I erase it.
I know there is a future waiting out there for me.
Still scared though.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Sweet and sour pork
Cut and paste from ex-blog again - sorry. But we just had it for dinner last night, so I thought it would be an appropriate post. An Asian classic.
This is my mum's recipe, with tweaks from Barbara Tropp and Yan-Kit So - who brought Asian cooking to America and UK respectively the way Julia Child did French cooking and Marcella Hazan did Italian cooking (I received her cookbook in the post today!). I promise you that, unlike the starchy sugar-fest goop you get at most Asian restaurants in the USA, this dish tastes fresh, healthy and clean.
RECIPE: SWEET AND SOUR PORK
(serves 5)
(cooking time: 20-30 mins)
A - Meat
400g/1 lb lean pork shoulder, sliced into little chunks
2 tbsp corn starch
1 egg
Rice flour
Potato starch
B - Sauce
8 tbsp water
1/4 tsp salt
2 tsp soya sauce
4 tbsp sugar
3 tbsp rice or white wine vinegar
1/2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tbsp ketchup
1 tbsp chilli sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
C - VEGETABLES
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1" ginger, cut into fine threads
1 big onion, peeled and chopped into small pieces
1 cucumber, seeded and chopped into small pieces
2 tomatoes, chopped into small pieces
1 red chilli, sliced
3 stalks scallions, sliced into 3cm strips
A. Marinate the sliced pork with 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp sugar. Coat with 2 tblsp of cornflour. Add 2 tbsp of water and stir in one direction until all the water is absorbed. Beat in one egg. Knead thoroughly and rest for 15 mins or longer.
(B - Meanwhile, prepare the sauce by mixing all the ingredients for the sauce)
After the meat has been marinated well, coat each slice with a combination of rice flour and potato flour in the ratio of 1:1. Heat about 1 inch of oil in a wok until smoking slightly (180 degrees celcius). Deep fry one batch until cooked and crisp, about 4 mins. Remove and drain. Repeat until all the meat has been cooked (about 3-4 batches). Add and heat more oil as needed.
C. Heat 2 tbsp of clean oil. Fry the ginger and garlic until fragrant, about 3 mins. Add in onion, cucumber, tomatoes, chilli, and scallions. Stir fry for about 2 mins. Then add sauce and bring to a boil. Adjust the taste. Thicken with cornstarch solution if needed.
Add in the fried pork and mix well. Or serve pork with sauce in a separate bowl. Garnish with cilantro and serve with rice.
This is my mum's recipe, with tweaks from Barbara Tropp and Yan-Kit So - who brought Asian cooking to America and UK respectively the way Julia Child did French cooking and Marcella Hazan did Italian cooking (I received her cookbook in the post today!). I promise you that, unlike the starchy sugar-fest goop you get at most Asian restaurants in the USA, this dish tastes fresh, healthy and clean.
RECIPE: SWEET AND SOUR PORK
(serves 5)
(cooking time: 20-30 mins)
A - Meat
400g/1 lb lean pork shoulder, sliced into little chunks
2 tbsp corn starch
1 egg
Rice flour
Potato starch
B - Sauce
8 tbsp water
1/4 tsp salt
2 tsp soya sauce
4 tbsp sugar
3 tbsp rice or white wine vinegar
1/2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tbsp ketchup
1 tbsp chilli sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
C - VEGETABLES
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1" ginger, cut into fine threads
1 big onion, peeled and chopped into small pieces
1 cucumber, seeded and chopped into small pieces
2 tomatoes, chopped into small pieces
1 red chilli, sliced
3 stalks scallions, sliced into 3cm strips
A. Marinate the sliced pork with 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp sugar. Coat with 2 tblsp of cornflour. Add 2 tbsp of water and stir in one direction until all the water is absorbed. Beat in one egg. Knead thoroughly and rest for 15 mins or longer.
(B - Meanwhile, prepare the sauce by mixing all the ingredients for the sauce)
After the meat has been marinated well, coat each slice with a combination of rice flour and potato flour in the ratio of 1:1. Heat about 1 inch of oil in a wok until smoking slightly (180 degrees celcius). Deep fry one batch until cooked and crisp, about 4 mins. Remove and drain. Repeat until all the meat has been cooked (about 3-4 batches). Add and heat more oil as needed.
C. Heat 2 tbsp of clean oil. Fry the ginger and garlic until fragrant, about 3 mins. Add in onion, cucumber, tomatoes, chilli, and scallions. Stir fry for about 2 mins. Then add sauce and bring to a boil. Adjust the taste. Thicken with cornstarch solution if needed.
Add in the fried pork and mix well. Or serve pork with sauce in a separate bowl. Garnish with cilantro and serve with rice.
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Homestyle Pot Roast
My momma (The Boy's mum) has a great recipe for pot roast. I remember sitting at her dinner table one cold Christmas night and tucking into this hearty braise and watching in horror as The Boy creamed his plate with barbecue sauce. =)
This braise has plenty of flavour enough - thanks to the sweetness of the vegs and the tanginess of the Worcestershire sauce. And it's so very easy - 'put in a pot and forget about it' easy - like most braises. The uniqueness of this braise, however, is that it is cooked on the stove for a very very long time on very very low heat, much like a slow-cooker, but with very very little braising liquid. The meat basically braises in its own juices. You wouldn't even know it's cooking just by looking at it, but it is.
It's simple, basic, and hearty. Thanks for the recipe, momma Akins!
RECIPE: HOMESTYLE POT ROAST
(serves as much as you can fit in your Dutch oven!)
(cooking time: at least 4 hours)
1 Dutch oven with a heavy lid
A - Meat
Brisket or Chuck (approx 1/2 pound per person)
1 onion, chopped finely
B - Braising liquid
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce per pound of meat
1/2 tbsp Light soy per pound of meat
1/2 tbsp Dark soy per pound of meat
1 tbsp Water per pound of meat
C - Vegetables
1 Onion, cut into small cubes
3 Carrots, cut into small rounds
2 Potatoes, diced into small cubes (I substitute one sweet potato to enhance the sweetness)
Celery, diced (adds depth to the flavour)
A - Heat 2-3 tbsp of canola oil into your Dutch oven till very hot. Brown the meat on both sides. Take out and set aside (I usually place them on the overturned cover of my Dutch oven).
B - Add 1 tbsp oil in Dutch oven and fry the chopped onions till soft. Add braising liquids and, when it is bubbling, use a wooden spoon to scrape off the bits at the bottom of the Dutch oven. Return the meat into the Dutch oven and arrange it in a single layer, making sure that there is a layer of onions below and on top of the meat. Cover with parchment paper (punching the middle down till it's almost touching the meat) and a heavy lid. Braise on very very low heat for at least 4 hours.
* Now, don't worry that the liquids are going to dry out after such a long time. If you use a very very low heat, it won't. The idea is to use the meat's own juices to cook the meat. In fact, don't be surprised if, in step C, you see a puddle of water collected on the surface of the parchment paper when you remove the lid! Scoop that water out and throw it away please.
C - 50 minutes before serving time, remove the parchment paper and taste. Add more Worcestershire sauce or soy as needed. Add the vegetables in and return the lid on. When ready to serve, take the meat out and cut into big chunks. Mix it all up and... viola!
Serve with mash potatoes or rice. We also had vegetarian dumplings for appetizers and cupcakes from Crave for dessert last night - yums! Thank you for the cupcakes, L!
This braise has plenty of flavour enough - thanks to the sweetness of the vegs and the tanginess of the Worcestershire sauce. And it's so very easy - 'put in a pot and forget about it' easy - like most braises. The uniqueness of this braise, however, is that it is cooked on the stove for a very very long time on very very low heat, much like a slow-cooker, but with very very little braising liquid. The meat basically braises in its own juices. You wouldn't even know it's cooking just by looking at it, but it is.
It's simple, basic, and hearty. Thanks for the recipe, momma Akins!
RECIPE: HOMESTYLE POT ROAST
(serves as much as you can fit in your Dutch oven!)
(cooking time: at least 4 hours)
1 Dutch oven with a heavy lid
A - Meat
Brisket or Chuck (approx 1/2 pound per person)
1 onion, chopped finely
B - Braising liquid
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce per pound of meat
1/2 tbsp Light soy per pound of meat
1/2 tbsp Dark soy per pound of meat
1 tbsp Water per pound of meat
C - Vegetables
1 Onion, cut into small cubes
3 Carrots, cut into small rounds
2 Potatoes, diced into small cubes (I substitute one sweet potato to enhance the sweetness)
Celery, diced (adds depth to the flavour)
A - Heat 2-3 tbsp of canola oil into your Dutch oven till very hot. Brown the meat on both sides. Take out and set aside (I usually place them on the overturned cover of my Dutch oven).
B - Add 1 tbsp oil in Dutch oven and fry the chopped onions till soft. Add braising liquids and, when it is bubbling, use a wooden spoon to scrape off the bits at the bottom of the Dutch oven. Return the meat into the Dutch oven and arrange it in a single layer, making sure that there is a layer of onions below and on top of the meat. Cover with parchment paper (punching the middle down till it's almost touching the meat) and a heavy lid. Braise on very very low heat for at least 4 hours.
* Now, don't worry that the liquids are going to dry out after such a long time. If you use a very very low heat, it won't. The idea is to use the meat's own juices to cook the meat. In fact, don't be surprised if, in step C, you see a puddle of water collected on the surface of the parchment paper when you remove the lid! Scoop that water out and throw it away please.
C - 50 minutes before serving time, remove the parchment paper and taste. Add more Worcestershire sauce or soy as needed. Add the vegetables in and return the lid on. When ready to serve, take the meat out and cut into big chunks. Mix it all up and... viola!
Serve with mash potatoes or rice. We also had vegetarian dumplings for appetizers and cupcakes from Crave for dessert last night - yums! Thank you for the cupcakes, L!
Friday, May 8, 2009
Chilean sea bass with miso
This is adapted from Nobu Matsuhisa's recipe for black cod with miso. I remember my friend, Raj, calling me up one night and going to Nobu for dinner on a whim. Mind you, we were two students then living in a dorm - not really the kinda setting for a fancy night out - but we did it anyway. I still remember the black cod with miso that I had. And the good times with a good friend. Those were the days when we were young.
It turns out that this dish is a hit with my American friends too - a robust fish paired with a sweet marinade. Another attempt to eat more fish and less red meat.
RECIPE: Chilean sea bass with miso
(cooking time: 20 mins)
(serves 5)
1 Ziploc bag
1 baking dish
1 grill
A - Marinade
1/4 cup Sake (or Vermouth if you don't want to buy one entire bottle of sake)
1/4 cup Mirin
4 tbsp White miso paste (not red, not brown - white. I found it at Whole Foods (Miso Master), in the refrigerated section. Also available at Asian grocery stores.)
3 tbsp Sugar
B - Fish
1 1/2 pounds Chilean sea bass (centre-cut or fillet with the skin still on)
C - Garnishing
Toasted sesame seeds
Scallions, finely chopped
A - Mix the marinade in a Ziploc bag, making sure to quish the miso paste until it has "dissolved" in the liquids. Insert fish in Ziploc bag and marinate overnight in the fridge.
B - Pre-heat oven to 400 F. Pre-heat grill on high. Grill fish on both sides until brown. Place in baking dish, with the excess miso paste on top, and bake in oven for 15 mins. Transfer fish to highest rack and turn broiler on. Grill until surface of fish crisps slightly (or if using a fillet - make sure the skin side is up and crisping) and the miso is bubbling.
C - Transfer fish onto a serving plate. Careful - the fish will be flaking at this point, so make sure you have two very wide spatulas to lift it out of the baking tray and onto a plate! We had a minor disaster last night, with some fish landing on the kitchen table... 10 sec rule saves the day!
Serve with toasted sesame seeds and scallions sprinkled on top.
It turns out that this dish is a hit with my American friends too - a robust fish paired with a sweet marinade. Another attempt to eat more fish and less red meat.
RECIPE: Chilean sea bass with miso
(cooking time: 20 mins)
(serves 5)
1 Ziploc bag
1 baking dish
1 grill
A - Marinade
1/4 cup Sake (or Vermouth if you don't want to buy one entire bottle of sake)
1/4 cup Mirin
4 tbsp White miso paste (not red, not brown - white. I found it at Whole Foods (Miso Master), in the refrigerated section. Also available at Asian grocery stores.)
3 tbsp Sugar
B - Fish
1 1/2 pounds Chilean sea bass (centre-cut or fillet with the skin still on)
C - Garnishing
Toasted sesame seeds
Scallions, finely chopped
A - Mix the marinade in a Ziploc bag, making sure to quish the miso paste until it has "dissolved" in the liquids. Insert fish in Ziploc bag and marinate overnight in the fridge.
B - Pre-heat oven to 400 F. Pre-heat grill on high. Grill fish on both sides until brown. Place in baking dish, with the excess miso paste on top, and bake in oven for 15 mins. Transfer fish to highest rack and turn broiler on. Grill until surface of fish crisps slightly (or if using a fillet - make sure the skin side is up and crisping) and the miso is bubbling.
C - Transfer fish onto a serving plate. Careful - the fish will be flaking at this point, so make sure you have two very wide spatulas to lift it out of the baking tray and onto a plate! We had a minor disaster last night, with some fish landing on the kitchen table... 10 sec rule saves the day!
Serve with toasted sesame seeds and scallions sprinkled on top.
Thursday, May 7, 2009
Stir-frying with a wok: Fried Rice and How to cook rice
Or "flied lice", as one of my American friends likes to joke. Yes, really funny. We speak English in Singapore and, just by the way, have a higher GDP per capita than... oops, is this my identity crisis rearing or what?
My Guatamalan housekeeper requested this recipe, fried rice being the ubiquitous poster child for Asian cuisine in United States. My brother has some fancy pants recipe for fried rice - and it is very good so I hope he will want to post it here some day when he gets a moment off his super duper job. But our goal here is Simplicity and Speed - as it usually is for me when I make fried rice. It's a quick fix. I also suggested an alternative with curry paste, which you can buy in a jar, if you are *really* in a hurry. I do that sometimes.
This is a great way to use up leftovers.
So, instead of paying $9 at Pei Wei, here is your very own flied lice...
RECIPE: FRIED RICE
(serves as many as you want)
(cooking time: 15 mins)
1 saucepan + 1 sieve OR electric rice cooker
1 wok
A - Rice
This dish is at its best with leftover rice, which dries out a little in the fridge, but if not:
1 cup per person Rice (short or long grain)
Water
B - Base
2 tbsp Vegetable oil
1 Onion, chopped finely
1 per person Eggs
C - Seasoning
Dark Soy or Kechap Manis (sweet thick dark soy)
A lot of white pepper
Chili sauce or chili oil (optional)
OR
Curry paste (in a jar)
D - Meat/Vegetables
* Really whatever you like - good to use up leftovers - but here are some suggestions:
Frozen peas, Broccoli, Carrots, Scallions or Cilantro - diced
Chicken OR Shrimp - pre-cooked
A - Wash rice by rinsing it in cold water and draining. Repeat until the water becomes less cloudy. I usually use the water from the first rinse to water my plants.
Cook rice. There are two methods:
(i) Put rice in a non-stick saucepan with water. 1 3/4 cups of water per cup of rice (long grain) or 1 1/2 cups of water per cup of rice (short grain). Put the lid on tightly and bring to a boil, then lower heat to medium. Cook for 12 minutes. Tip the rice into a sieve and let it drain and sit for at least 5 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork.
(ii) May I suggest, yet again, a rice cooker? I'd be happy to recommend some good ones - forget the fuzzy logic contraptions, just get a good basic rice cooker.
B - In a wok, add 2 tbsp of oil. Fry the onions until soft and translucent. Add eggs. Now, this is the trickier timing part: When the egg is still a little uncooked on top, add the rice and separate the grains vigorously. This way, each rice grain is coated with egg.
C - Add a few swirls of dark soy or kechap manis to taste (about 1 swirl per cup of rice), and white pepper to taste. Stir and flip (the definition of "stir-fry") the rice until evenly coated with the seasoning. Optional: Add chili sauce or chili oil.
If using curry paste from a jar, fry the onions, then the curry paste, then add the eggs and rice.
D - Add the other ingredients and mix everything well.
Serve with chopped scallions or cilantro.
Update: In Chinese cooking, there are four elements to a perfect dish - colour, fragrance, beauty (presentation), taste. I mention it here because, upon reflection, one other reason I like fried rice is because it is pretty composition of colours: RED (carrots/red chilis) + GREEN (scallions, broccoli, frozen peas) + WHITE (rice)
My Guatamalan housekeeper requested this recipe, fried rice being the ubiquitous poster child for Asian cuisine in United States. My brother has some fancy pants recipe for fried rice - and it is very good so I hope he will want to post it here some day when he gets a moment off his super duper job. But our goal here is Simplicity and Speed - as it usually is for me when I make fried rice. It's a quick fix. I also suggested an alternative with curry paste, which you can buy in a jar, if you are *really* in a hurry. I do that sometimes.
This is a great way to use up leftovers.
So, instead of paying $9 at Pei Wei, here is your very own flied lice...
RECIPE: FRIED RICE
(serves as many as you want)
(cooking time: 15 mins)
1 saucepan + 1 sieve OR electric rice cooker
1 wok
A - Rice
This dish is at its best with leftover rice, which dries out a little in the fridge, but if not:
1 cup per person Rice (short or long grain)
Water
B - Base
2 tbsp Vegetable oil
1 Onion, chopped finely
1 per person Eggs
C - Seasoning
Dark Soy or Kechap Manis (sweet thick dark soy)
A lot of white pepper
Chili sauce or chili oil (optional)
OR
Curry paste (in a jar)
D - Meat/Vegetables
* Really whatever you like - good to use up leftovers - but here are some suggestions:
Frozen peas, Broccoli, Carrots, Scallions or Cilantro - diced
Chicken OR Shrimp - pre-cooked
A - Wash rice by rinsing it in cold water and draining. Repeat until the water becomes less cloudy. I usually use the water from the first rinse to water my plants.
Cook rice. There are two methods:
(i) Put rice in a non-stick saucepan with water. 1 3/4 cups of water per cup of rice (long grain) or 1 1/2 cups of water per cup of rice (short grain). Put the lid on tightly and bring to a boil, then lower heat to medium. Cook for 12 minutes. Tip the rice into a sieve and let it drain and sit for at least 5 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork.
(ii) May I suggest, yet again, a rice cooker? I'd be happy to recommend some good ones - forget the fuzzy logic contraptions, just get a good basic rice cooker.
B - In a wok, add 2 tbsp of oil. Fry the onions until soft and translucent. Add eggs. Now, this is the trickier timing part: When the egg is still a little uncooked on top, add the rice and separate the grains vigorously. This way, each rice grain is coated with egg.
C - Add a few swirls of dark soy or kechap manis to taste (about 1 swirl per cup of rice), and white pepper to taste. Stir and flip (the definition of "stir-fry") the rice until evenly coated with the seasoning. Optional: Add chili sauce or chili oil.
If using curry paste from a jar, fry the onions, then the curry paste, then add the eggs and rice.
D - Add the other ingredients and mix everything well.
Serve with chopped scallions or cilantro.
Update: In Chinese cooking, there are four elements to a perfect dish - colour, fragrance, beauty (presentation), taste. I mention it here because, upon reflection, one other reason I like fried rice is because it is pretty composition of colours: RED (carrots/red chilis) + GREEN (scallions, broccoli, frozen peas) + WHITE (rice)
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Steaming with a wok: Steamed Sea Bass
My first Asian post. Well, really I've cut and pasted from my ex-blog and added a couple more words, but this was what was on the dinner table one day this week - in our bid to eat more fish and less red meat.
In some Asian grocery stores in Houston, TX, you can find live fish (i.e. still swimming in a tank) - the best way of knowing whether the fish you've bought is fresh. The fish man sweeps your chosen fish out of the tank, cleans and guts it, and hands it to you in a bag. If you are queasy about looking your meal in the eye (quite literally), or are finicky about bones, he will be happy to fillet it. If you don't buy a live fish, the way to check that your fish is fresh is to look them in the eye (sorry) and check that it is bright and not dull and clouded over. Guess I'm reaping the benefits of compulsory home economics in school. No frozen fish for this dish, ok?
This a recipe for Steamed Sea Bass, courtesy of an older lady I once knew in London, and whose hospitability meant that I often graced her table for homecooked chinese food when I was homesick. I hope this blesses someone out there too.
In some Asian grocery stores in Houston, TX, you can find live fish (i.e. still swimming in a tank) - the best way of knowing whether the fish you've bought is fresh. The fish man sweeps your chosen fish out of the tank, cleans and guts it, and hands it to you in a bag. If you are queasy about looking your meal in the eye (quite literally), or are finicky about bones, he will be happy to fillet it. If you don't buy a live fish, the way to check that your fish is fresh is to look them in the eye (sorry) and check that it is bright and not dull and clouded over. Guess I'm reaping the benefits of compulsory home economics in school. No frozen fish for this dish, ok?
This a recipe for Steamed Sea Bass, courtesy of an older lady I once knew in London, and whose hospitability meant that I often graced her table for homecooked chinese food when I was homesick. I hope this blesses someone out there too.
RECIPE: Steamed Sea Bass
(Cooking time: 15 mins)
1 wok, with a steaming rack that fits into the wok OR an overturned bowl.
* Add water into the wok up till the level of the rack/bowl, cover tightly and bring to a boil. To steam, place the food on a plate, on the rack/bowl, cover and steam. I also have a nifty contraption to lift the steamed plate off the rack, but you can use oven gloves.
A - Garnishing
Ginger, sliced
Ginger, julienned
Scallions, cut into 1 inch stalks
Scallions, julienned
Fresh red chilli, julienned
2-3 tbsp Oil
B - Sauce
1 tbsp light soya sauce (Lee Kum Kee carries one specially for seafood)
1 tbsp dark soya sauce
1 tbsp Shaoxing cooking wine or Vermouth
1 tsp sugar
3 tbsp water
white pepper (optional)
A. Layer one layer of sliced/cut ginger and scallions on a plate. Place fish over. Steam for 8 minutes per pound, but no more than 12 minutes maximum.
Remove fish and place on a fresh plate. Layer julienned vegetables over fish.
Heat oil until smoking. Pour over.
B. Mix sauce and heat to boiling. Pour over.
Monday, May 4, 2009
The "Spider": New names for old things
This is called a "spider" in the USA. Ah, the days where I had to pick deep-fried wontons or sweet 'n' sour pork pieces out of the wok one by one with a pair of wooden chopsticks - these days are over! The "spider" (aka long-handled wok strainer) is more difficult to find in Houston, TX, than you think... This one is also dishwasher-safe - hoorah!
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
A basic Chinese kitchen
A few people have asked why is it I never post any Chinese recipes, when Chinese is what I cook predominantly. Well, the main reason is because a lot of Chinese cooking rests on a huge presumption - the presumption that you have all the standard ingredients that it takes to cook a standard chinese meal. And not being one who's ever gone out specifically to buy one or two (make that five or six) ingredients specially to cook Chinese, I'm not sure how it works for other people.
You see, it's not like you buy an entire bottle of soy to cook one meal - one bottle will last you probably several several meals, and if you don't cook Chinese everyday, then the bottle of soy just sits there, like a dark white elephant, gazing eternally at your bottle of Worcester sauce (my own dark white elephant).
But it occured to me that the next best thing is for me to start by listing what I think are the basic essentials of a Chinese kitchen, so that if you ever want to cook Chinese, well, it's there. And these things keep forever anyway. So... hence this post.
P.S. If you want to cook Chinese soups, which I do a lot because I grew up drinking soup and believe it has tangible health properties, that's a whole different kettle of fish for another post, alright?
A BASIC CHINESE KITCHEN
Equipment:
- Wok, with steaming rack (I have a big Proforge anodised carbon wok and a small Professional wok, both by Meyer. You can stir-fry, deep-fry, braise, steam, stew etc with one wok.)
- Wok ladle
- A very good chef's knife (you only need one knife, I promise you)
- Tongs or a pair of long wooden chopsticks (not the short ones used for eating)
- Ramekins (optional - I use these for preparing my mise en place when cooking several dishes, which is the norm for a communal meal.
- May I suggest a rice cooker as well? Zojirushi!
Things I always have in the fridge:
- Garlic (you can buy big tubs of peeled cloves from any grocery store, even Kroger)
- Ginger
- Red chilis
- Scallions
- Coriander
- Chili sauce (The Boy likes Siracha. I call it the American Asian sauce)
- Fresh egg noodles
You see, it's not like you buy an entire bottle of soy to cook one meal - one bottle will last you probably several several meals, and if you don't cook Chinese everyday, then the bottle of soy just sits there, like a dark white elephant, gazing eternally at your bottle of Worcester sauce (my own dark white elephant).
But it occured to me that the next best thing is for me to start by listing what I think are the basic essentials of a Chinese kitchen, so that if you ever want to cook Chinese, well, it's there. And these things keep forever anyway. So... hence this post.
P.S. If you want to cook Chinese soups, which I do a lot because I grew up drinking soup and believe it has tangible health properties, that's a whole different kettle of fish for another post, alright?
A BASIC CHINESE KITCHEN
Equipment:
- Wok, with steaming rack (I have a big Proforge anodised carbon wok and a small Professional wok, both by Meyer. You can stir-fry, deep-fry, braise, steam, stew etc with one wok.)
- Wok ladle
- A very good chef's knife (you only need one knife, I promise you)
- Tongs or a pair of long wooden chopsticks (not the short ones used for eating)
- Ramekins (optional - I use these for preparing my mise en place when cooking several dishes, which is the norm for a communal meal.
- May I suggest a rice cooker as well? Zojirushi!
Things I always have in the fridge:
- Garlic (you can buy big tubs of peeled cloves from any grocery store, even Kroger)
- Ginger
- Red chilis
- Scallions
- Coriander
- Chili sauce (The Boy likes Siracha. I call it the American Asian sauce)
- Fresh egg noodles
In my pantry:
- Light soy
- Dark soy
- Light soy for seafood (optional - good for steamed fish)
- Dark soy mushroom flavoured (optional - useful for flavouring)
- Vegetable oil
- Sesame oil
- Chili oil
- Oyster sauce
- Rice wine vinegar
- Shaoxing wine (you can use vermouth, but... well, it's not Chinese)
- Worcester sauce (primarily for sweet and sour anything here, but obviously has other uses)
- Corn starch/flour
- Potato starch/flour
- Rice flour (we use brown rice flour)
- Sugar (ditto brown sugar)
- Dried mushrooms (Japanese mushrooms are the best)
- Dried chilis
- Rice
Ok, now we're ready to cook some Chinese...
Tiramisu
For all those of you who didn't know that Tiramisu is made almost entirely out of raw eggs, well, this post is for you...
There is Tiramisu. And then there is Tiramisu. You know? My dad loves Tiramisu in cake form. Haagen Daz makes Tiramisu ice-cream in the UK. Me? I like my Tiramisu extremely eggy and slightly foamy, in between layers of savoiardi biscuits touched with a hint of espresso and a lot of brandy.
I love eggs. I love everything related to eggs - custard, meringues, fried eggs over-easy (I did a personal Runaway Bride egg test once upon a time), eggs Benedict, did I mention custard?... I even have an entire cookbook devoted to eggs (2006, Marie Simmons, The Good Egg). Hence, I also love Tiramisu. Real tiramisu - not the sort that you find in some restaurants that tastes predominantly of cream. The eggy sort. And for those of you who only buy organic free-range eggs and live in central Houston: chee chee Central Market has the cheapest eggs (surprise surprise!). Eggland organic, however, is retailing 50c cheaper way out in Blalock, where you'll find me occasionally.
Anyways, back to my Italian trifle.
RECIPE: TIRAMISU
(serves 5)
(cooking time: 3 hours)
Individual glasses or one big trifle bowl
Two mixing bowls
Electric mixer (hand or standing)
A - Base
1 pack Savoiardi ladyfingers
1 1/2 cups Espresso, cooled (NOT coffee. Espresso. This is very important cos everything gets a little diluted as the dessert sets in the fridge)
1/3 cup Brandy (buy a small flight-size bottle and use the whole bottle)
B - Custard
500g Mascarpone (2 tubs should be enough, even if it doesn't make up exactly 500g)
5 Eggs, separated
1/2 cup Sugar
1/2 cup Whipping cream (1/4 pint should be good)
C - Topping
Cocoa powder
A - Mix espresso and brandy in a tallish container. Dip Savoiardi biscuits in for a second (not too long or else it'll get soggy) and arrange two layers in serving dish. If serving in individual glasses, I usually break each biscuit in two to fit within the circumference of the glass.
B - Beat egg yolks until light. Beat in sugar. Beat in mascarpone.
In a separate bowl, beat egg whites until you get stiff peaks. Fold into above mixture.
Rinse and dry bowl. Whip the cream until you get soft peaks. Fold into above mixture.
Layer complete mixture on top of soaked biscuits. Then add another layer of biscuits, and another layer of mixture. Leave in refrigerator for at least 3 hours to set.
C - Sprinkle cocoa powder on top before serving. I like serving tiramisu with fresh strawberries on the side. The hint of tartness goes beautifully with the egginess and creaminess of the dessert.
I love easy comfort food. Mm...
There is Tiramisu. And then there is Tiramisu. You know? My dad loves Tiramisu in cake form. Haagen Daz makes Tiramisu ice-cream in the UK. Me? I like my Tiramisu extremely eggy and slightly foamy, in between layers of savoiardi biscuits touched with a hint of espresso and a lot of brandy.
I love eggs. I love everything related to eggs - custard, meringues, fried eggs over-easy (I did a personal Runaway Bride egg test once upon a time), eggs Benedict, did I mention custard?... I even have an entire cookbook devoted to eggs (2006, Marie Simmons, The Good Egg). Hence, I also love Tiramisu. Real tiramisu - not the sort that you find in some restaurants that tastes predominantly of cream. The eggy sort. And for those of you who only buy organic free-range eggs and live in central Houston: chee chee Central Market has the cheapest eggs (surprise surprise!). Eggland organic, however, is retailing 50c cheaper way out in Blalock, where you'll find me occasionally.
Anyways, back to my Italian trifle.
RECIPE: TIRAMISU
(serves 5)
(cooking time: 3 hours)
Individual glasses or one big trifle bowl
Two mixing bowls
Electric mixer (hand or standing)
A - Base
1 pack Savoiardi ladyfingers
1 1/2 cups Espresso, cooled (NOT coffee. Espresso. This is very important cos everything gets a little diluted as the dessert sets in the fridge)
1/3 cup Brandy (buy a small flight-size bottle and use the whole bottle)
B - Custard
500g Mascarpone (2 tubs should be enough, even if it doesn't make up exactly 500g)
5 Eggs, separated
1/2 cup Sugar
1/2 cup Whipping cream (1/4 pint should be good)
C - Topping
Cocoa powder
A - Mix espresso and brandy in a tallish container. Dip Savoiardi biscuits in for a second (not too long or else it'll get soggy) and arrange two layers in serving dish. If serving in individual glasses, I usually break each biscuit in two to fit within the circumference of the glass.
B - Beat egg yolks until light. Beat in sugar. Beat in mascarpone.
In a separate bowl, beat egg whites until you get stiff peaks. Fold into above mixture.
Rinse and dry bowl. Whip the cream until you get soft peaks. Fold into above mixture.
Layer complete mixture on top of soaked biscuits. Then add another layer of biscuits, and another layer of mixture. Leave in refrigerator for at least 3 hours to set.
C - Sprinkle cocoa powder on top before serving. I like serving tiramisu with fresh strawberries on the side. The hint of tartness goes beautifully with the egginess and creaminess of the dessert.
I love easy comfort food. Mm...
Monday, April 20, 2009
Breakfast Eggs
My day usually starts at 6.30am. My husband, who would have been awake before that (freak), grinds and makes coffee when he gets up and eats a bowl of cereal over his Bible. Then he potters into the bedroom to wake me, which can be a protracted affair (I'm not a morning person). It is then my duty to make breakfast. At 6.30am in the morning, I'm usually not at my best. So for all you non-morning women out there, I want to give hope: It IS possible to have breakfast at home, dress AND make-up in an hour, and still get to work on time.*
* This assumes it takes you 30 mins to dress and make-up, and that coffee is done. A coffee machine is a good substitute for husbands in this case, but perhaps not otherwise.
This breakfast is healthy because there is no added fat except what you get from the bacon, and we eat only the whites of the eggs, so you get the protein without the fat (in the yolk). It can easily be turned into an English breakfast, except you'll have to slice mushrooms too. The recipe feeds two.
* This assumes it takes you 30 mins to dress and make-up, and that coffee is done. A coffee machine is a good substitute for husbands in this case, but perhaps not otherwise.
This breakfast is healthy because there is no added fat except what you get from the bacon, and we eat only the whites of the eggs, so you get the protein without the fat (in the yolk). It can easily be turned into an English breakfast, except you'll have to slice mushrooms too. The recipe feeds two.
So, the little morning breakfast dance goes as follows:
RECIPE: BREAKFAST EGGS
(Cooking time: 20 mins)
1 frying pan
1 food processor
Bacon (Oscar Meyer has a low fat option)
Onion
Tomato
Eggs
Milk
Cayenne pepper
Garlic powder
Refried beans (in can - Kroger brand fat free option has the best nutrition count, even beating Amy's and Rosita's)
Shredded cheese (optional)
Tortillas (optional)
- Husband wakes and makes coffee. Wakes me and jumps into shower.
- I get out of bed (reluctantly). I take ingredients out of fridge/pantry.
*switch to third person*
- Heat frying pan to medium heat (I actually do this first and take ingredients out of fridge while the pan is heating up) and lay 3 strips of bacon in pan. Fry till crispy, turning over half way.
- While bacon is frying, do all your slicing: onion, tomato.
- Turn bacon over.
- In a food processor, blend: 6-8 egg whites, dash of cayenne pepper, dash of garlic powder, 1/2 cup milk - this will ensure that your eggs turn out fluffy.
- Take bacon out and lay on kitchen towel.
- Add chopped onion into the remaining fat from the bacon and fry till soft. Then add egg mixture, stirring it around occasionally. This will ensure that you get a fluffy scramble instead of an omelette. You can scatter some shredded cheese at this point if you want.
- While the eggs are cooking, put refried beans in a bowl with a dash of garlic powder and heat in microwave.
- When the eggs are almost done to your preferred consistency, add chopped tomatoes and crumble the crisped bacon into the pan. Mix.
- Take refried beans out of the microwave (careful, it will be hot!) and put tortillas in (if eating with tortillas - this is optional), covered. The cover is important so that it doesn't dry out.
- Plate eggs and beans
*switch back to first person*
- While husband eats, I brush my teeth and put on some war paint, sipping coffee while doing so.
- I eat quickly, with husband, now being more capable of reasonable conversation. Then we dress. We leave. Some time in between all this, I make the bed and the dishes find their way into the dishwasher. More often than now, however, they get washed later.
While this might sound way too complicated for the morning, it is also safe to say that practice makes perfect. We do the drive-thru at El Rey sometimes too - nothing wrong with that. Sometimes we have an English breakfast instead (eggs over-easy, bacon, tomato, mushrooms), or bak chor mee (a version of Singaporean noodles) in the morning (it's an Asian thing), or roti prata (S.E. Asian pancakes) with leftover curry. Sometimes my husband heats up a frozen burrito himself so that I can sleep a little longer. Whatever works for you, so long as you remember to eat breakfast!
Saturday, April 18, 2009
A quick and easy roast: Roast chicken... Chicken stock and Cream of chicken soup
Subtitle: The Chicken Post
Chicken is a wonderfully versatile animal - when it's cooked, that is. And in roast form, it is a quick and easy meal that feeds 4-5 (or two, with equally versatile leftovers) - bunk it in the oven and forget about it - which was exactly what I needed when my husband called me one afternoon this week to tell me that two great friends of ours were coming over for dinner, and they called later to ask if they could bring one more person. What a blessing to be able to host good friends!
Roast chicken is also a gift that keeps giving. In true Asian tradition, no part of the animal goes to waste here - first for a roast, then chicken stock, which can be turned into cream of chicken soup at some later point. Which was what I did when we had impromptu guests the next day...! Or, you can use the stock for other cooking.
So this post actually has 3 recipes. Here we go!
RECIPE: ROAST CHICKEN
Timetable:
(for a meal starting at 8pm with a 3 lb/1.5 kg whole chicken, with a side of garlic)
6.00 Preheat oven. Prep chicken
6.20 Put chicken in oven
7.00 Put in garlic side
7.50 Take roasted chicken out and stand for 10 mins
8.00 Prep gravy while someone else carves the roasted chicken
1 Roasting dish with rack
A - Seasoning
1 stick Butter (8 tbsp/113 g)
White pepper
Salt
B - Meat
1x Whole chicken (1.5 lb/ 1.5 kg)
C - Aromatics
1/2x Lemon
D - Garlic side
1 head of garlic per person
E - Gravy
1 cup Chicken stock
Splash of white wine
A. Pre-heat oven to 390 F/200 C. Soften butter and mix in salt and pepper.
B. Using your hand, separate the skin over the chicken breast from the meat, taking care not to break the skin. Slip the buttery seasoning under the skin with a flat spatula and, massaging the chicken skin, push it around until the whole breast is covered under the skin. Turn the chicken around and do the same. Brush the remaining butter all over, dabbing small pats of the buttery seasoning in the crevices of the wings and the legs so that they don't dry out.
This can get your hands a bit messy, and it will take a few washes with soap to get everything off and from under your nails. On the other hand, butter can be a natural moisturizer...
C. Quarter the lemon and stuff into the chicken cavity. Roast for 20 mins per pound, plus 30 mins. Take chicken out of oven and rest on its rack for 10 mins.
E. 50 mins before the chicken is done, put the heads of garlic in an oven dish with some olive oil and put in the oven. What this does is that it steams the garlic in their skin, and it makes a wonderful accompaniment to the roast chicken. I got this idea from Nigella Lawson.
D. While the chicken is resting and being carved (by someone else), transfer the chicken drippings onto the stove. Over direct heat, add 1 cup of chicken stock and a splash of white wine (I used Vermouth this time) and bring to a boil. Simmer until it is reduced to a syrupy consistency. You can add a tbsp of flour dissolved in 3 tbsp of water to help the thickening.
Serve with mash and salad.
RECIPE: CHICKEN STOCK
(Cooking time: 3 hours)
1 Saucepan
Leftover chicken carcass and bones
1 Bouquet garni (2 bay leaves, thyme, parsley)
2 Carrots, peeled and diced
1 stick Celery, diced
1 Onion, diced
1 Clove
Salt and pepper
Cover with water and bring to a boil. Simmer for 3 hours.
RECIPE: CREAM OF CHICKEN SOUP
(Cooking time: 15-30 mins)
2 pots
1 sieve
Food processor
A - Base
1.6 oz/45 g Butter
1x Leek, washed and sliced finely
B - Liquids
2 cups/500 ml Chicken stock from above
1 cup/300 ml Full fat milk (I use half-and-half in the USA)
C - Aromatics
2x Bay leaves
1 clove Garlic
Pinch of White pepper
0.5oz/15 g Butter
D - Meat
1 Chicken breast
E - Thickening
1 tbsp White flour, dissolved in 3 tbsp water
1x Egg yolk
A. Melt butter in pot. Add leeks and cook till softened.
B. Add the liquids and bring to a boil. Lower heat.
C/D. Add the aromatics (except butter) and chicken breast. Simmer for 10 mins. Take the chicken out and dice. Blitz the remaining mixture in a food processor - this will probably need to be done in batches. Strain and push the blitzed mixture through a sieve into another pot on a low heat to keep it warm. Return diced chicken into the mixture.* Add 0.5 oz/15 g butter.
* Alternatively, for a soup with some bits in it, you could just dice the chicken, return it to the mixture, and blitz the whole thing - leeks, diced chicken and all - in the food processor.
E. Whisk in the thickening and serve at your preferred consistency.
I like to serve this soup garnished with finely chopped fresh chives.
Bon appetit!
Chicken is a wonderfully versatile animal - when it's cooked, that is. And in roast form, it is a quick and easy meal that feeds 4-5 (or two, with equally versatile leftovers) - bunk it in the oven and forget about it - which was exactly what I needed when my husband called me one afternoon this week to tell me that two great friends of ours were coming over for dinner, and they called later to ask if they could bring one more person. What a blessing to be able to host good friends!
Roast chicken is also a gift that keeps giving. In true Asian tradition, no part of the animal goes to waste here - first for a roast, then chicken stock, which can be turned into cream of chicken soup at some later point. Which was what I did when we had impromptu guests the next day...! Or, you can use the stock for other cooking.
So this post actually has 3 recipes. Here we go!
RECIPE: ROAST CHICKEN
Timetable:
(for a meal starting at 8pm with a 3 lb/1.5 kg whole chicken, with a side of garlic)
6.00 Preheat oven. Prep chicken
6.20 Put chicken in oven
7.00 Put in garlic side
7.50 Take roasted chicken out and stand for 10 mins
8.00 Prep gravy while someone else carves the roasted chicken
1 Roasting dish with rack
A - Seasoning
1 stick Butter (8 tbsp/113 g)
White pepper
Salt
B - Meat
1x Whole chicken (1.5 lb/ 1.5 kg)
C - Aromatics
1/2x Lemon
D - Garlic side
1 head of garlic per person
E - Gravy
1 cup Chicken stock
Splash of white wine
A. Pre-heat oven to 390 F/200 C. Soften butter and mix in salt and pepper.
B. Using your hand, separate the skin over the chicken breast from the meat, taking care not to break the skin. Slip the buttery seasoning under the skin with a flat spatula and, massaging the chicken skin, push it around until the whole breast is covered under the skin. Turn the chicken around and do the same. Brush the remaining butter all over, dabbing small pats of the buttery seasoning in the crevices of the wings and the legs so that they don't dry out.
This can get your hands a bit messy, and it will take a few washes with soap to get everything off and from under your nails. On the other hand, butter can be a natural moisturizer...
C. Quarter the lemon and stuff into the chicken cavity. Roast for 20 mins per pound, plus 30 mins. Take chicken out of oven and rest on its rack for 10 mins.
E. 50 mins before the chicken is done, put the heads of garlic in an oven dish with some olive oil and put in the oven. What this does is that it steams the garlic in their skin, and it makes a wonderful accompaniment to the roast chicken. I got this idea from Nigella Lawson.
D. While the chicken is resting and being carved (by someone else), transfer the chicken drippings onto the stove. Over direct heat, add 1 cup of chicken stock and a splash of white wine (I used Vermouth this time) and bring to a boil. Simmer until it is reduced to a syrupy consistency. You can add a tbsp of flour dissolved in 3 tbsp of water to help the thickening.
Serve with mash and salad.
RECIPE: CHICKEN STOCK
(Cooking time: 3 hours)
1 Saucepan
Leftover chicken carcass and bones
1 Bouquet garni (2 bay leaves, thyme, parsley)
2 Carrots, peeled and diced
1 stick Celery, diced
1 Onion, diced
1 Clove
Salt and pepper
Cover with water and bring to a boil. Simmer for 3 hours.
RECIPE: CREAM OF CHICKEN SOUP
(Cooking time: 15-30 mins)
2 pots
1 sieve
Food processor
A - Base
1.6 oz/45 g Butter
1x Leek, washed and sliced finely
B - Liquids
2 cups/500 ml Chicken stock from above
1 cup/300 ml Full fat milk (I use half-and-half in the USA)
C - Aromatics
2x Bay leaves
1 clove Garlic
Pinch of White pepper
0.5oz/15 g Butter
D - Meat
1 Chicken breast
E - Thickening
1 tbsp White flour, dissolved in 3 tbsp water
1x Egg yolk
A. Melt butter in pot. Add leeks and cook till softened.
B. Add the liquids and bring to a boil. Lower heat.
C/D. Add the aromatics (except butter) and chicken breast. Simmer for 10 mins. Take the chicken out and dice. Blitz the remaining mixture in a food processor - this will probably need to be done in batches. Strain and push the blitzed mixture through a sieve into another pot on a low heat to keep it warm. Return diced chicken into the mixture.* Add 0.5 oz/15 g butter.
* Alternatively, for a soup with some bits in it, you could just dice the chicken, return it to the mixture, and blitz the whole thing - leeks, diced chicken and all - in the food processor.
E. Whisk in the thickening and serve at your preferred consistency.
I like to serve this soup garnished with finely chopped fresh chives.
Bon appetit!
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Texan Chili
One of the best ways to dive into a new culture is to eat. And cook. And as I've discovered, the fascinating thing about America is that there is no "one" culture when it comes to food. Yet it is deep discussions like "who has the best bbq" (Kansas), or "the most authentic chili" (Texas) that forges an invisible bond - whether you are from New York or Arkansas. By the wayside, sport does that too.
Most foodies define "authentic" Texan chili as "the way I grew up", which obviously poses a problem from a research standpoint. The recipe here is one that I've tested and tweaked. The coffee gives it gravitas, and then there are several layers to the flavour. But if you grew up with tomatoes and beans in your chili, then this is not for you. On the other hand, if you like the taste of mole, then you'll probably like this too.
Do leave a comment to tell me what your "secret" ingredient is!
RECIPE: TEXAN CHILI
(Serves 6)
(Cooking time: at least 2 hours)
A - Aromatics 1
4 Dried chilis
B - Aromatics 2
1/3 cup Chili powder
2 tbsp Oregano (some say Mexican oregano)
1 tbsp Cayenne pepper
1 tbsp Ground cumin
1 tsp Ground coriander
1/2 tsp Ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp Allspice
4 Cloves
C - Base
4 strips Bacon
1 White onion, chopped
4 cloves Garlic, minced
D - Meat
2 lb Ground beef (some Texans would argue diced beef)
E - Liquid
1 cup Coffee (a smoky roast does well here, to give depth)
1 bottle Beer
2 cups Water
F - Accent
1/3 tablet of Cooking chocolate, grated
Squeeze of lime juice (optional)
A. Cut the head and tails of each chili and slice it lengthwise. Shake out all the seeds. Heat in a small frying pan, dry, until the skin blisters a little. Soak in water for 1/2 hour and drain. Blend with 1-2 tbsp of water in food processor.
B. Mix all the spices together with 3-4 tbsp of water to make a dry paste.
C. Fry the bacon on the frying pan to a crisp. Set aside on some kitchen towels to drain. Add 2 tbsp of the bacon fat into a separate Dutch oven or pot, and fry the onions then garlic till softened. Add (B) and fry till fragrant.
D. Meanwhile, in the frying pan, use the rest of the bacon fat (2 tbsp) to brown the meat. It does not have to be thoroughly cooked, but it should be seared on the outside. Add to Dutch oven when browned, tossing to make sure that the meat is well coated with the aromatics.
E. Add the liquids and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer for 5 hours (at least 2 hrs). You don't want it watery, sort of sludgy (what a terrible way to describe it!).
F. In the last half hour, add the cooking chocolate and season with salt. At this point, taste the chili and add more of your favourite spices to taste. Squeeze some lime juice just before serving, or I like to serve with Doritos lime-flavoured chips instead.
Sunday Roast with English Trifle
Sunday roast is a beautiful thing - there is nothing more therapeutic than massaging a hunk of joint, stirring custard as the sun rises, and the manly smokey smell of meat in the oven that fills your house when you get back from church. We've lost some of the purity of cooking in our quest for convenience, I think. Don't get me wrong. I love a good pot roast and chili etc (everything in the pot and forget about it). But some Sundays, just some, it's just nice to take a bit more time for something special, to remember. Easter Sunday is always a good time, for example.
But it takes military discipline. Just as ballet does. Or gymnastics. I say this because the process captures your entire focus and heart. And precision and timing is of the essence. For this Easter, I scribbled this timetable down:
MENU
Roast sirloin joint, with Horseradish mustard and Gravy
Crunchy roast potatoes
Yorkshire pudding
Steamed broccoli
English Trifle
TIMETABLE (For a meal to be served at 1.30pm, with 4.5 lbs of meat, cooked medium rare.)
Night before: Prepare base of trifle. Season sirloin joint.
Morning: Make custard for trifle. Allow to cool and set in refrigerator.
1100 Pre-heat oven to 475 F.
1110 Sear beef in oven - 20 mins.
Peel potatoes, slice onions for gravy.
1130 Lower oven heat to 355 F. Roast beef for 1 hr 15 mins, basting occasionally.
Make gravy.
Peel and par-boil potatoes.
1230 Increase oven heat to 425 F. Roast beef at high heat for a further 15 mins.
Add fat into separate roasting pan for potatoes and put in oven.
1245 Take roast beef out. Cover with foil.
Add fat into pans for Yorkshire pudding and put in oven.
Put potatoes into oven.
Prep Yorkshire pudding.
1300 Put Yorkshire pudding in oven.
Prep and cook broccoli.
1330 Lunch is served.
RECIPE: ROAST BEEF (serves 5-6)
1 roasting dish with rack
A - Spices
1 tbsp Dry mustard powder
1 tbsp White flour
1 tbsp Pepper
B - Meat
4.5 lb Sirloin on the joint
A. Dry fry mustard powder, white flour and pepper in a small pan until fragrant (3 mins).
B. Cover fat side of meat with spices and leave in refrigerator, on roasting rack, overnight.
Sear meat in oven at 475 F for 20 mins. Reduce oven heat to 355 F and roast for 15 mins per lb, plus 15 mins for medium rare. Take out of oven and cover with foil. Rest for 30-40 mins.
RECIPE: GRAVY
1 saucepan
A - Base
15g Butter
1 White onion
Pinch of Brown sugar
1 tsp White flour
B - Liquids
300 ml Beef stock (use water from par-boiling potatoes if possible)
2 tbsp Marsala
A. Melt butter and saute onions at low temperature until soft. Add brown sugar and flour to caramelise onions.
B. Add beef stock and bring to a boil. Lower temperature and simmer for 20 mins. Puree the whole mixture and add meat juices when roast is done.
RECIPE: HORSERADISH MUSTARD
1 small tub Greek yoghurt
2 tbsp Grated Horseradish (more if you wish)
1 tbsp Dijon Mustard
Pinch of Icing sugar
Pinch of Salt
Mix ingredients together.
RECIPE: CRUNCHY ROAST POTATOES
1 big saucepan or pot with lid
1 roasting dish
Potatoes - one for each person (I like to use a mixture of potatoes and sweet potatoes, peeled and cut.)
1. Par-boil potatoes in salted water for 5 mins. Drain.
2. Add 1 tbsp white flour (optional) and bang around in pot with the lid on.
3. Heat 2 tbsp of oil (if possible, use dripping from the roasting beef) in a roasting pan and put into oven for 15 mins at 425 F.
4. Take out heated roasting pan and, over a direct fire, add par-boiled potatoes and toss in the fat.
5. Roast in oven on the highest shelf for 45-55 mins.
RECIPE: STEAMED BROCCOLI
1 big saucepan/pot OR 1 steamer
3 Broccoli heads (or you can cut the stems off), separated
1. Steam broccoli for 3-5 mins (I use my big wok) until cooked but still crunchy. Or par-boil in a pot of water and drain.
2. Serve with salt/pepper and pats of butter melted over.
RECIPE: YORKSHIRE PUDDING
(Coming soon...)
RECIPE: ENGLISH TRIFLE (serves 5-6)
One tall glass per person (e.g. sundae glass, water glass, high-ball) - or you can use one big glass bowl for everyone.
A - Base
3 Roly polys (thin layer of sponge cake rolled with jam - if I have the time, I make my own, or you can buy these ready made in most grocery stores)
Marsala
Grand Marnier
B - Fruit jelly
1 packet of jello
2 cans Fruit cocktail
C - Custard
450 ml Double cream (I use half-and-half in the USA but increase the number of yolks to 12)
8 Egg yolks, beaten
D - Whipped cream
1 small carton Whipping Cream
A. Cut roly polys into 1 inch thick rounds. Place at bottom of each glass and decorate the sides of the base with half rounds. Spoon into each glass 1 tbsp of Marsala and 2 tbsp of Grand Marnier. Leave to soak.
B. Prepare jello according to the instructions on the package. Leave to cool. Spoon equal amounts of fruit cocktail into each glass. Pour jello mixture into glasses and leave to set in refrigerator overnight.
C. At least 4 hours before serving, prepare custard by heating the double cream in a saucepan on low heat. Just before it bubbles and boils, add egg yolks in little by little, stirring constantly. Stir until mixture thickens.* Leave to cool. When cool, spoon over trifle mixture to add another layer and leave to set in refrigerator.
* If the eggs look like they are about to scramble, take the saucepan off the heat immediately and plunge into cold water. But this has never happened to me; it should be pretty uneventful if the temperature of the fire is controlled well.
D. Just before serving, whip whipping cream until thicken. Spoon over trifle mixture to create the final layer. You can even grate some chocolate over to pretty it.
But it takes military discipline. Just as ballet does. Or gymnastics. I say this because the process captures your entire focus and heart. And precision and timing is of the essence. For this Easter, I scribbled this timetable down:
MENU
Roast sirloin joint, with Horseradish mustard and Gravy
Crunchy roast potatoes
Yorkshire pudding
Steamed broccoli
English Trifle
TIMETABLE (For a meal to be served at 1.30pm, with 4.5 lbs of meat, cooked medium rare.)
Night before: Prepare base of trifle. Season sirloin joint.
Morning: Make custard for trifle. Allow to cool and set in refrigerator.
1100 Pre-heat oven to 475 F.
1110 Sear beef in oven - 20 mins.
Peel potatoes, slice onions for gravy.
1130 Lower oven heat to 355 F. Roast beef for 1 hr 15 mins, basting occasionally.
Make gravy.
Peel and par-boil potatoes.
1230 Increase oven heat to 425 F. Roast beef at high heat for a further 15 mins.
Add fat into separate roasting pan for potatoes and put in oven.
1245 Take roast beef out. Cover with foil.
Add fat into pans for Yorkshire pudding and put in oven.
Put potatoes into oven.
Prep Yorkshire pudding.
1300 Put Yorkshire pudding in oven.
Prep and cook broccoli.
1330 Lunch is served.
RECIPE: ROAST BEEF (serves 5-6)
1 roasting dish with rack
A - Spices
1 tbsp Dry mustard powder
1 tbsp White flour
1 tbsp Pepper
B - Meat
4.5 lb Sirloin on the joint
A. Dry fry mustard powder, white flour and pepper in a small pan until fragrant (3 mins).
B. Cover fat side of meat with spices and leave in refrigerator, on roasting rack, overnight.
Sear meat in oven at 475 F for 20 mins. Reduce oven heat to 355 F and roast for 15 mins per lb, plus 15 mins for medium rare. Take out of oven and cover with foil. Rest for 30-40 mins.
RECIPE: GRAVY
1 saucepan
A - Base
15g Butter
1 White onion
Pinch of Brown sugar
1 tsp White flour
B - Liquids
300 ml Beef stock (use water from par-boiling potatoes if possible)
2 tbsp Marsala
A. Melt butter and saute onions at low temperature until soft. Add brown sugar and flour to caramelise onions.
B. Add beef stock and bring to a boil. Lower temperature and simmer for 20 mins. Puree the whole mixture and add meat juices when roast is done.
RECIPE: HORSERADISH MUSTARD
1 small tub Greek yoghurt
2 tbsp Grated Horseradish (more if you wish)
1 tbsp Dijon Mustard
Pinch of Icing sugar
Pinch of Salt
Mix ingredients together.
RECIPE: CRUNCHY ROAST POTATOES
1 big saucepan or pot with lid
1 roasting dish
Potatoes - one for each person (I like to use a mixture of potatoes and sweet potatoes, peeled and cut.)
1. Par-boil potatoes in salted water for 5 mins. Drain.
2. Add 1 tbsp white flour (optional) and bang around in pot with the lid on.
3. Heat 2 tbsp of oil (if possible, use dripping from the roasting beef) in a roasting pan and put into oven for 15 mins at 425 F.
4. Take out heated roasting pan and, over a direct fire, add par-boiled potatoes and toss in the fat.
5. Roast in oven on the highest shelf for 45-55 mins.
RECIPE: STEAMED BROCCOLI
1 big saucepan/pot OR 1 steamer
3 Broccoli heads (or you can cut the stems off), separated
1. Steam broccoli for 3-5 mins (I use my big wok) until cooked but still crunchy. Or par-boil in a pot of water and drain.
2. Serve with salt/pepper and pats of butter melted over.
RECIPE: YORKSHIRE PUDDING
(Coming soon...)
RECIPE: ENGLISH TRIFLE (serves 5-6)
One tall glass per person (e.g. sundae glass, water glass, high-ball) - or you can use one big glass bowl for everyone.
A - Base
3 Roly polys (thin layer of sponge cake rolled with jam - if I have the time, I make my own, or you can buy these ready made in most grocery stores)
Marsala
Grand Marnier
B - Fruit jelly
1 packet of jello
2 cans Fruit cocktail
C - Custard
450 ml Double cream (I use half-and-half in the USA but increase the number of yolks to 12)
8 Egg yolks, beaten
D - Whipped cream
1 small carton Whipping Cream
A. Cut roly polys into 1 inch thick rounds. Place at bottom of each glass and decorate the sides of the base with half rounds. Spoon into each glass 1 tbsp of Marsala and 2 tbsp of Grand Marnier. Leave to soak.
B. Prepare jello according to the instructions on the package. Leave to cool. Spoon equal amounts of fruit cocktail into each glass. Pour jello mixture into glasses and leave to set in refrigerator overnight.
C. At least 4 hours before serving, prepare custard by heating the double cream in a saucepan on low heat. Just before it bubbles and boils, add egg yolks in little by little, stirring constantly. Stir until mixture thickens.* Leave to cool. When cool, spoon over trifle mixture to add another layer and leave to set in refrigerator.
* If the eggs look like they are about to scramble, take the saucepan off the heat immediately and plunge into cold water. But this has never happened to me; it should be pretty uneventful if the temperature of the fire is controlled well.
D. Just before serving, whip whipping cream until thicken. Spoon over trifle mixture to create the final layer. You can even grate some chocolate over to pretty it.
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